
Water Heater Repair
Shut off the gas valve or the breaker and close the cold inlet if the tank is leaking or the relief valve is discharging, then call rather than continuing to run it.
When this becomes an emergency
- Damp concrete under and around the base of the tank.
- A metallic tint to the hot water that isn't there on the cold side.
- Knocking from the tank when the burner or element comes on.
- A pilot needing to be relit more than once in a week.
What a pro does
A water heater sitting in a basement corner gets ignored until it stops, and by then a plumber's real task is working out whether there's anything left worth fixing. The serial number gives the manufacturing date, which frames everything else. Electric units get their elements and thermostats tested individually, since a bad element is a straightforward replacement while a scaled one is a symptom of the water the tank is being fed. Gas units get the burner, the thermocouple, and above all the venting, and older homes on both sides of the line often run that vent into a masonry chimney that was never intended for a modern appliance. Draft gets confirmed before anything else is called finished. Sediment comes out through a flush where the tank can still take one, though minerals from limestone groundwater cement into a crust in a neglected tank and won't always leave through a drain valve. Anything weeping from the shell ends the discussion, and replacement then brings the pan, the drain, and the expansion side into the job.
Frequently asked questions
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